Sunday, October 28, 2007

Coastal Wetlands in Singapore: Sungei Buloh





My continuing exploration of Singapore took me to a different type of nature reserve this weekend. Sungei Buloh, located in the northern part of Singapore near Woodlands, is a coastal wetlands area, where freshwater river and ponds meet saltwater tidal marshes. There are good opportunities to view wildlife, with many species of birds and reptiles.







One of the first things I noticed upon arrival was a sign warning me what to do if I chanced upon a crocodile. Its advice was something like take 5 steps back, call a ranger, and leave quickly (running sounds good). Every so often, there were reminder signs like this one, just in case I started to get complacent in my crocodile vigilance. It did not help that the path generally was the divider between two murky bodies of water, and all the Steve Irwin (God rest his soul) shows I watched showed crocs hunting by lunging out of murky waters at creatures close to the shoreline (like me on the path). Fortunately I did not encounter any crocs, but had a good startle with a 9 foot monitor lizard that moved suddenly near me.







Speaking of monitor lizards, I was told I would see them in this park, and I was not disappointed. I saw 3 small ones (~ 3 feet) and 2 larger ones (6-9 feet). For the most part they were peacefully crossing the path to get between bodies of water, and did not seem to mind the humans watching from a distance. The big one I mentioned before was in a stream near the path. I did not see it until it moved suddenly, not far from where I was standing. Amazing how out of the corner of one's eye a lizard can resemble a croc at first. A thrill to say the least.







Along with the larger monitor lizards, I saw several smaller lizards and turtles, along with many species of shoreline birds: egrets and sandpipers mostly. There were also many burrowing crabs that made mud nests in the mangrove swamp.







One of the best parts was a boardwalk traversing a flooded mangrove swamp. It was a long boardwalk through a seemingly endless swamp. It was very peaceful, and had many beautiful views.









It was a bit tricky getting to the nature reserve. The 925 bus from the Kranji MRT station left me a bit short of the destination (about 1 km short). It turns out that the bus only goes all the way there on Sundays. Later I found out there was a shuttle that could cover the remaining distance. Next time I take a taxi, but this park was well worth the journey.

Sunday, October 7, 2007

From an island to an island: Pulau Ubin

My continuing exploration of Singapore took me to Pulau Ubin, a small island just off the Changi Point area. On this island, one can find resorts, campsites, trails, jungle, wetlands and several km of trails of varying quality. Some are paved, some are more rugged and earthy, and there is even a boardwalk at Chek Jawa.


To get there, one needs to take a 10 minute ride in a bumboat, costing a whole S$2.oo. At this price, one does not expect luxury. Bumboats are sturdy painted wooden vessels, where 12 people sit on hard benches in close company. They seem as old as the island itself.





Once there, the main way of getting around is on a bicycle, which can be rented fairly cheaply. While much of the island is connected by paved roads, some of the more interesting places (like Chek Jawa) can only be reached by dirt and rock trails. It is well worth the extra money to rent a higher-quality mountain bike with good shocks. Mine was so-so.







For me, the best part of the island was Chek Jawa, a coatal wetlands which can be viewed by 2 boardwalk paths, one which is about 10m off the coastline over nearby coral reefs, while the other weaves in and out of mangrove swamps on land. Together, they show a very complete view of the coastal wetlands area.














Coastal boardwalk part 2.














Mangrove tree at low tide.






















A 30m observation tower. 30m is a lot of stairs! Attempt only if healthy and hydrated, but the view is worth it.


After Chek Jawa, I toured a couple of beach areas, rode by a resort complex, saw the outskirts of a police training ground, and rode past some resident's dwellings (where it felt like I was intruding, but many were selling water and drinks, and did not seem to mind). While I enjoyed getting out and riding around on the whole island, the Chek Jawa area (run by Singarpore National Parks) was the clear highlight of the trip. Overall, it was a great way to spend a nice Saturday afternoon.